2/27/10 Middelt, Middle Atlas (day 1)
Went to a picnic lunch in the cedar forest in the Middle Atlas mountains. Had peanut butter and didn't realize how much I missed it! Saw some Barbary apes, sheep, donkeys, and Amazighs (Berbers). Now I have a migraine from mint tea withdrawal! Makes sense, as I am accustomed to drinking at least 3 glasses with breakfast. Our hotel looks right out over the Atlas Mountains. Middelt is a quiet town used as a last stop by travelers before they cross the mountains. It was shocking to see snow in Morocco. We passed some beautiful lakes in the foothills and a Swiss-style town (Ifrane) that really felt like Europe, with red sloping roofs, a tranquil stream, and a famous (?) stone lion. Our hotel is refreshingly fancy. I'm sleeping on an actual mattress, there are only 2 people to a room (instead of 6+), and there are outlets and showers!
3/2/10 on the bus en route to Marrakech
Stalled behind a stuck bus on a flooded road. These roads are obviously not made for rain, and there is at least 3 feet of water rushing over this road. A taxi just tried to get across and failed. This is quite amusing--reminds me of fording the river on Oregon Trail game.
Last night our group had dinner with some Moroccan girls ages 12-20 at a dormitory that helps girls get an education. It was awkward at first (many of them do not speak French or English), but there were some really good moments. It was funny to see the girls giggling over how much they loved Max (a guy on our program). Their embarrassed whispers and blushing cheeks could be understood by any girl who has had a crush. We managed to communicate through gestures and smiles. The most poignant moment for me was when we took turns singing our national anthems for each other. Usually in the U.S., I do not put my hand over my heart during the national anthem and I usually spend the song thinking about the problems of patriotism and whatever problems the U.S. is having domestically and internationally. I hadn't thought about this before, but my not covering my heart has been a personal (and meaningless) protest of all the things I don't like about the United States. But when I reluctantly stood up to sing our national anthem (by the way, why is ours so hard to sing? we sounded ridiculous), the Moroccan girl next to me, Rashida, gestured for me to put my hand over my heart. Rashida is 14, and she looked at me like I was crazy for not covering my heart. At this dinner I was the most proud to be American that I have been in a long time. No matter my problems with the country, I have to recognize all that it has provided me. I've been enjoying a relatively spectacular education, having a U.S. passport makes travel so much easier, and some people would literally kill to live in the U.S. I have to remember to be grateful that we have relative (compared to many other countries) freedoms to think, express ourselves, live, and love. Of course, no country is perfect, but at least some people in the U.S. have the freedom to recognize this and try to improve things in more meaningful ways than refusing to cover their hearts for our national anthem.
3/5/10 Marrakech
Laura, Katherine and I are in Marrakech following the NYT's article called "36 Hours in Marrakech". We had a very nice and relaxing lunch at KosyBar today. I had bread and ravioli in goat cheese and a Corona. I felt like I was in New York, eating well and being productive exploring the city. It was calming to look over the square filled with fabrics and spices while I ate on a plush white couch. It has really come to my attention here that there is more than one Morocco. The life I experience with my host family in Rabat couldn't be more different from the weekend I'm having in Marrakech. Both are good, but I'm having a very happy weekend. Essaouira was beautiful as well. Very touristy (as is Marrakech), but less stuff to do. I loved the white and blue walls next to the ocean. Felt Greek but was designed by a French man (the name means "well-designed"). I actually preferred the miniature medina there because it was cleaner, brighter, and more manageable. Street harassment is rarer, and I haven't seen this many white people since I've been in Morocco. Had lunch in Essaouira by the ocean with some friends and got offered some "happy cookies". Yep, it's kind of hippie here, as well as European, bright, and warm. Not much to do, so I'm glad we rushed to Marrakech.
There is so much amazing stuff to buy here, but after living in the medina in Rabat, where people constantly yell at me to buy their goods, I have become desensitized to a lot of the beautiful items.
SIT has done a really good job of getting us to see a lot of stuff. It sometimes feels like a big field trip, but I don't regret it.
3/6/10 Marrakech
Yesterday morning at breakfast we got into a huge fight with our waiter. He tried to charge us for pancakes we didn't receive and was very rude to us. We refused to pay for what we didn't get, and as we walked out, he said "You're not English; you're Irish!".
Last night we had a cheap dinner across the street, but our dreaded waiter from breakfast saw us in the other restaurant and came to speak with our dinner waiter. We thought something dangerous would get added to our meals after their heated conversation. But the threat of food poisoning has passed. We then went to Le Comptoir, a beautiful bar filled with roses and lit only by candles. The music, drinks, and chocolate souffle were incredible. We have to come back tomorrow night!
Today we had a leisurely breakfast to avoid the rain, and our adventures have been perfectly timed with the weather ever since. We went to La Mamounia hotel and gardens, which were verdant, fragrant, and light. No expense was spared in this luxurious hotel. Next was Jardin Majorelle, which was less impressive but more lush and colorful. This weekend has been flawless--productive relaxation!
Our hotel here costs about $6.50 USD a night! There are no sheets on the bed, but that doesn't matter. We're finishing the 36 hours tomorrow with a full body scrub and massage at Les Bains de Marrakech.
I'll be sad to go back to Rabat. Marrakech is much more entertaining and culturally interesting.
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